27 January 2013

Left: Torii Kinoyaga painting of Geisha on the Tachibana Street, 1786

(Much of the late Edo period was punctuated by both lavish and stict sumptuary rules. Being too inventive or showy in fashion was risky)

An outer robe that was slightly falling off the shoulders was considered alluring. The neck and was seen as one of the most sexually appealing parts of a woman's body, so to do the hair up with slightly loose robe was the equivalent of Regency d├ęcolletage. The Geisha carried an  umbrella called a wasaga, made of rice paper, bamboo and metal. It is not only seen and used as a mere tool but it is symbol beauty, grace and nobility.

Right: Didit Hediprasetyo Couture Spring 2013

Romanticism and sensuality of far east culture that inspired Didit Hediprasetyo for his couture collection is strongly perserved in this number. And looking at one-off shoulder black dress reveals even more. Even though, I admit my fail identification of the reference of that very umbrella - I thought it was inspired by Javanese payung muntho, as I referred to his backgroud as highly respected Javanese family (his grand father was the second president of Indonesia, Soeharto). But then again, Japanes collonisation in 1940s had brought some influence to the culture as well.

Javanese royal 1867