26 September 2013

Alaïa, one of the most private couturier has a special chapter on my work-in-rogress book. Gathering material about Alaïa is such a particular challenge, let alone seeing his creation and how his design evolves through time.

So, having TWO exhibition in a year of his collection, I couldn't be luckier.

Azzedine Alaïa – Fall/Winter 2003 Azzedine Alaïa archives © Patrick Demarchelier

Alaïa dress – 1996 Azzedine Alaïa archives © Ilvio Gallo, 1996

Alaïa dress – Fall:Winter 2003 Azzedine Alaïa archives © Paolo Roversi, 2013

Alaïa dress – Spring:Summer 1990 Azzedine Alaïa archives © Ilvio Gallo, 1996

Alaïa dress – Spring:Summer 1991 Azzedine Alaïa archives © Ilvio Gallo, 1996

The famous Palais Galliera celebrates Azzedine Alaïa in an exhibition exhibition. The first Parisian retrospective is presented in the renovated galleries of the palace, and in the room Matisse Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris . A selection of seventy iconic models traces the Azzedine Alaïa unique creative journey.His learning is closely linked to the client that has captivated by couture, legendary figures such as Louise de Vilmorin , Arletty or Greta Garbo. Encouraged by his friend Thierry Mugler , he presented in 1979 his first collection , and he made leather more fragile, more sensual. Jersey and stretched fabrcs, are which he drapes the body, as reminiscent of the Ecole des Beaux- Arts in Tunis, where he studied sculpture, "When I work clothing, it has to turn around the body, side and back ". The zips make their way around the dresses , carnations percent coats, stings emphasize the curve of tailors. Alaïa has shaped a new body as a sculptor whose hands fashion chiffon or leather. It is one of the few to control all stages of the production of a garment: draw a pattern, draw on the canvas shapes and volumes he has in mind , cut, sew and tame.

Inventing new morphologies by the simple complex seams, Alaïa has become the fashion of a work that transcends time. His influence on contemporary fashion is essential. Azzedine Alaia, a sublime craftsman himself, continues its path preferring "clothes that last " to those who go out with the seasons (it explains why he is such a rebel to Paris strict calender). This insatiable lover of women says : "I make clothes , they are trendy ...". Models and friends he revealed - as Naomi Campbell, Stephanie Seymour, Linda Spierings , Linda Evangelista , Veronica Webb and Yasmin Le Bon - are also his most faithful admirers .In 1985, he received two Oscars Fashion in Paris. The same year, he scrolled at the Palladium in New York with Jean- Paul Goude in art direction, finally, he was celebrated at the CAPC in Bordeaux with the sculptures of Dan Flavin. In 1996, in Florence, there was a monograph devoted to him at the Palazzo Corsini , followed by an exhibition with paintings by Julian Schnabel at the Biennale de la Mode. In 1998, a retrospective dedicated to him was held at the Groninger Museum, where his models, along with works by Pablo Picasso, Jean- Michel Basquiat, Anselm Kiefer, and Christopher von Weyhe. In 2000, the Guggenheim at Soho, he exhibited with the paintings of Andy Warhol.Palais Galliera - which was the site of the first Warhol exhibition in Paris - Alaïa's dresses are exposed in a setting assigned to designer Martin Szekely . In the Matisse Room Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris , they continue this dialogue with so much art in fashion .

Alaïa. Equal to Art.

Signorfandi, CAN.NOT.WAIT...