4 October 2013

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This is a to-live-for piece!! I even asked the staff to notify me the price (hope it's not sky-high) and when it is available at stores!

First, they are intertwined, inseparable, it seems a hard maze of light rods. But it opens slowly, the triangles of light push yourself too dramatic synch sounds slowly apart until a geometric image is produced - and suddenly everything makes sense. Then the light bars stand, consolidating itself as installation, abrupt rock - a little punk, a little bit indie - sets in, and Edie Campbell runs pouting on the catwalk. One of the first phrases of the song from the band Liars: "Come on, dance! "The beginning of the show was symptomatic of everything that Hedi Slimane and his reorientation of Saint Laurent is. Guy de Cointet, a French artist who lived and worked in the 70s in Los Angeles, was the inspiration for the light installation that opened the show - probably not a coincidence that Slimane, the Frenchman who seeks salvation from LA chose de Cointet, which is usually only known by art insiders. The harsh start with music and lyrics such as " Come on, dance! " shouted Slimane's manifesto, music and fashion and especially rock'n'roll.

In this collections for Saint Laurent, Slimane lives his obsession with youth cultures from earlier decades, looks for style icons, analyses their style and works its obvious inspiration from it in a rock and roll vision. This is clearly his signature. For spring/summer 2014, it was obviously music icons of the late 70s and early 80s, the outgoing Punk, Dark Wave, who Slimane fascinated by Siouxsie Sioux Siouxsie from the band Siouxsie and the Banshees, Debbie Harry of Blondie, and possibly a bit of Patti Smith. 

Sheer tops, some dots were seen in the 80 years of Siouxsie Sioux , as well as short, tight leather skirts and boxy cut suits with wide shoulders. The short dresses in turn, such as red zebra pattern of golden leather or dark blue would be electrifying as well have been possible to Debbie Harry. The shirts and thin ties, who were equally fundamental part of the collection, were strongly reminiscent of Patti Smith and her legendary "Horses" cover, in the outfit she had well over the Saint Laurent runway can run. Even the shoes, pumps with stiletto heel, worn with white socks, and boots came straight from the '80s. When I visited the showroom for re-see located in the Grand Palais two days ago, I couldn't help but notice that kitten heels are back. Rejuvenating the spirit of easy-to-move-in shoes, which then shortly associated with heels for ol' lady, the kittens are so practical that it supports his vision and aspiration of music (refer to the soundtrack "Come on, dance!"). In Slimane's hand, those tiny little feet elevators look so chic.

 I am aware that many people couldn't hear his "genre", still waiting for shock and surprise from his leadership in Saint Laurent, but what I saw, Hedi Slimane creates not just fashion, but a lifestyle, an attitude, a dream of life. Because rock and roll is still for freedom, for individuality, for confidence to be different. And even if we nostalgically remember the good old days - fashionably and musically - and this seems Slimane do this to say a lot about the same time from the present. Slimane awakens longings - as it usually only music can.

“And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music.”- Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche

Signorfandi,  so, can you hear Hedi's music?