18 February 2014

Didit Hediprasetyo brings couture back down to earth in his latest couture collection.

Photo: Courtesy

Guests are huddling, and with my slight tardiness- such an unfortunate thing- I almost missed the wonderland in the middle of Hotel de Salomon de Rothschild that afternoon. With a little piece of vineyard from heaven comes along as the backdrop, sleek is the word to explain the silhouette, but simplicity is blatantly inappropriate here. Even though colourful couture has never been his strength so far, and neither the vavavoom yawn yawn shapes, Didit is doing what he does best; flattering woman's body with the least as possible effort look (or at least it seems so). Shoulders are straight, A-line skirts are air-light. However, there's stark sense in it all. "It's Napa Valley", he explains backstage after the show of what he was inspired by.

Indeed it was. The earthy colours-soil brown, straw, cream and bronze- and the strong materials; ostrich and croco skin as his favorite (it appears in last season as well); the tough structure, and yet it has details if you look closely. Oh, and a lot of leather. Bomber jacket and crinoline-style dress in cotton fleece, whose asymmetrical front incorporates leather, dresses tailored in vanilla leather, and jumpsuit consisting of a lambskin shirt-front and trousers that come in Prince of Wales check are the punctuation in this very collection. And did I mention that he brings couture back down to earth? It happens literally. Instead of towering killer shoes, Didit sinks the models in so humble yet classy height with kitten heels. Too high is too much, or so did people say. And it's difficult not to associate women in super heels with frivolity. When you are in couture, your body language, the way you linger and walk counts. This kind of shoes makes it possible. He also comes back to his Indonesian root, using intricate Songket with European houndstooth pattern. Sensible enough.

In details, Lesage with its renown embroidery expertise applies the shapes of vine leaves and grapes immortalised with superb broderie anglaise. In just perfect amount.

Didit always knows the appropriate number and measure in his collection.

Signorfandi, same final phrase. Didit did it!