10 July 2014

Last minute show invitation always makes me scared for some reason. One, if I don't know the designer, I don't know what to expect. And I hate surprises in life as much as on runways. Furthermore, when my day is already jam-packed, it's quite difficult to spare some time for the surprise. But when a PR girl from Zuhair Murad e-mails me D -1 letting me know that I'm invited to Zuhair Murad show (sans carton, of course), I coudn't help but feel honoured. Excited to be precise. I have been following his work through glossy pages and internet, but I never experience the flesh of fabrics he constructs before. With a deep breath I started my day, since it's my second of five shows - couture marathon - to-day.

When I arrived, I suddenly smelled prettiness.

This is the kind of guest I'm expecting from a couture show. Divine!

Front-row was filled with couture clads Chinese, with some editors and VIPs on the other side. After getting myself seated (with a warm help from the girl who contacted me), and hearing the photographers screaming (uncross your legs, please! Rude... Red shoes, move back your legs, please!! Rude.. Rude.. ) and an umbrealla accident right in front of me (which I help handling it), the show begins.

It is very much well-structured yet red-carpet-ready collection. Those gowns are indeed created for towering bodies, but neglecting to see the prettiness is no use. Buildings designed by celebrated starchitects such as Norman Foster, Herzog & de Meuron, Steven Holl, and Zaha Hadid are the inspiration behind this new collection by the Lebanese designer. Black and white juxtaposed to create great effect, whether on a draped bustier gown that was neatly split in half for a yin-and-yang effect, or on a bomber jacket embroidered with an abstract checkerboard pattern worn over a stiff black skater skirt. The monochrome looks contrasted with vibrant marine and turquoise shades that evoked visions of the Riviera. Zuhair Murad also nodded to couture trope with a crimson strapless ballgown featuring an asymmetric ruffle train. While it was technically accomplished, his sparkly creations were more likely to win the youth vote. It's not much on the menu, but he gets it. By the same token, couture has entered a new era. Or as M. Grumbach once said; "Couture is getting younger and younger"

Well, what else can justify a zebra-embroidered bomber jacket with blossoming black short skirt on a couture stage?

Signorfandi, what an experience!