26 January 2017

Fashion show in Paris is not only held in a large building complete with a runway and little chairs for the guests. Some designers choose to hold a presentation rather than a show. The plus, the invited guests will have more freedom and more time observing the work of the designer. Stephane Rolland is consistently being one who chooses to hold a presentation with more intimate atmosphere that is.

Inspired by many of these artists from various eras, ranging from Michelangelo, Rodin, until Brancusi, Stephane Rolland created evening gowns with undulating, luxurious silhouettes. Mr. Rolland told me that he greatly admires works of art, and had long wanted to show his work in an art gallery. Dresses he created for this season did look  like sculptures in an exhibition. No wonder when the Romanian sculptor, Constantin Brâncuşi, greatly influenced his works, such as a Coupole skirt inspired by the sculpture Pasarea în văzduh (Bird in Space), the controversial Brancusi work which was sold for $US 27.5 million in 2005.

A white dress made of wool crêpe resembled the renown Carrara marble has a construction like an eclipse. Some looks were deliberately asymmetrical, and dresses made of silk faille and Gazar, blush tulle on the shoulders of a white suit, a dress strictly made of woven leather decorated with crystals on each cross-bred, as well as a long dress in black with a hood welcome the guests with striking effect like a living sculpture upon entering the gallery. In the middle, a red dress with a monumental Voctorian S silhouette. It ws nothing but a grand middlepunkt for this collection.

The dresses are indeed more grand ball/awards appropriate than a dinner party, but few things are sure. People will pay attention - and step aside to give a way.

Update: Read the review on CNN Indonesia.