11 March 2014

"She is a woman as she is". What Elena Rudenko created for her Fall/Winter 2014/5 collection proved that woman can be feminine and strong as well as fragile and sensitive at the same time.

A collection that likely more suitable for fall than winter, femininity was sprinkled all over this second collection of Elena. Not the kind of feminist femininity, but few were more into bold brave experimental shapes that reminded me of the early days of Balenciaga, with many form manipulations created by folds and drapes, resulting silhouettes resembling creatures from cocoon to tulip buds. It is now indeed not the era of Christian Dior's late '40s New Look, where length was a huge topics, but this is what I found interesting in this collection. Many aspects were intentionally made with unusual length. Collars, if any, were made up high it reached the chin, making it a little futuristic. Sleeves ended right in the elbow joint, coats provided in every length; above, right, and below the knees. Cropped black jackets were build ether wide at the botom part or so small it wrapped tight the waist. A white dress was with plaits all in front. Her daring approach to folds, moving lapels front to back then gracefully lowering it to shoulders level and unveiling the flowery motiffs on the inner lining of the coat.

With her fundamental ideas to make her clothing comfortable yet strong, this collection was so fervent, as joyous as the galloping deers and ticking clocks printed on the fabrics.

Signorfandi, the sensitivity and sensibility,...