18 March 2015

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold /

As if having a Foundation of ​​almost 12,000 m²  is not enough to hold their events, Louis Vuitton set up three extra domes to roll out their latest fashion show. A biosphere was built in the Bois de Boulogne, not far from the Louis Vuitton Foundation. That clue about the latest collection of Louis Vuitton which was not entirely appropriate, because it turned out the latest collection was inspired from the '70s individualism which then was mixed with futuristic ideas and the strong feel of the Foundation.

A drone flying to and fro-round events, recorded all moments that happened throughout the show. By having a strong tailoring team, Nicolas Ghesquière had not to worry about quality. A white sheepskin coat was combined with a layer of skin so easily. Similarly, the combination of lizard leather, cow leather, and cotton were so neat. Short dresses were embroidered with the LV monogram so carefully, with a combination of sky blue and black, giving a touch of masculinity in such pretty dresses. But somehow, the most memorable of the show was not the clothes. Of course green fur coat with leopard motif was very amazing. Or jacquard dress embroidered with jellyfish motifs, with puffed shoulders. Or maybe a skirt whic was fully embroidered with motifs resonancing Damier, producing a three-dimensional special effects.

It was the line of handbags, which is the most important line of Louis Vuitton, who left the deepest impression. Rows trunk with motifs malletage and handbags as well as minaudieres made from fiber glass, crocodile skin, and metal became the highlight of this collection. One thing I observed in this season is when designers compete to create accessories made from fur and small-sized bags. With the success of the series Petite Malle from the previous season (super mini version of the legendary LV Trunk), Nicolas Ghesquière came with genius combo: Petite Malle with soft white fur. The handle was shorter, tricked by making the shoulder straps to form a bond, it made it easier (and more beautiful) to carry. "It bag" of the season.

These series of Petite Malle first appeared on Nicolas Ghesquière’s first collection for Louis Vuitton, and it is inspired by the heavy LV iconic trunk created in 1858. The story is, that these three stars carved on the bag are the lucky charm symbol of Albert Khan, a French banker and philanthropist, who traveled the world in an attemt to "promote peace and gretaer understanding of the world's cultures", a spirit which is supported by Louis Vuitton with the release of Louis Vuitton City Guide in 1997. He hired photographers to travel to over fifty countries and documented the people and their cultures, and Albert Kahn commissioned Louis Vuitton trunks for his cameramen to use on their assignments across the planet.

Overall, this collection might feel too safe, with a silhouette that was not experimental and the use of elements of the green zone for fall as fur, leather and jersey. But certainly, Nicolas Ghesquière's odyssey at Louis Vuitton seems to have found its way, creating a brand with a line of accessories that are so desirable, the clothes are so wearable and modern. However, it still requires one thing: a surprise. In line with the normal expectations of  fashionistas towards designers who just enter a major fashion house, which is a big buzz within the collection -- instead of setting or whatever might overshadow it-- will retain Louis Vuitton's position as an important force that shapes the trend throughout the season.

Signorfandi, I want BOOM!