11 March 2015

Photo: Gianni Pucci /

In the world of fashion, fanatism/hatred towards a specific designer is sometimes difficult to change, even though that designer has showed that what he created had caused a major help for the company's health. In this case, Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent is the best example. I still can not fathom why there are still extreme haters, whereas his collection this season proved that his claws have digged deeper than ever.

When I entered the venue and the show started, a huge stage lifted up, the audience got a view of flashing fluorescent light and metal scaffolding. Tagline 'good girl gone bad' is seemingly suitable, as he showed the girls running (yes, they walked too fast!) in holey fishnet leggings. It is not Saint Laurent  if it is not about perfect tailoring, with a great example of suit perfectly cut and dresses perfectly trimmed. The stiffness of tuxedo is transformed into a punk glamour girl, but you can't help but see the quality in every pieces.

The zebra-cros cropped jacket, the snakeskin black coat, and coat with leopard mottif paired with thigh-high boots, it shows the power of styling as well. There were statement pieces like floor-length dress fully embroidered with tiger motif, or fur with embellishments. I did not know how he did it. There were also classic pieces, like polkadot cocktail dress with bow accent and motorbike jacket. But when I see THE FUR COAT, a coat with more than twelve kind of colours, which ruled the Instasphere in instance, or a short dress with more than FIFTEEN kind of materials (I counted it myself as I was invited for the re-see) connected with black zipper, I knew that what he brought to the stage is not just clothes. An idea of rebellion and pushing a dark sexiness into the limit is what he does best, with tailoring in couture quality. This collection, as he has been showing since his first step in the House, is just like another recital of a rebellious music everybody needs to hear.

Signorfandi, LOUD!