Le Smoking was once a controversial statement of feminity, a sexuality that didn't rely on exposed flesh or ruffels extravaganza. Nor was it a see through clothing that bares it all. It was right in the middle, tight enough to show the curves, but loose enough to give impression she's a lady. It was Yves Saint Laurent who made masculine suit really soaring.
Now Dice Kayek presented a series of renewed and polished Le Smoking, perfectly cut pants suit with sharp contours. Imagine a marriage between Le Smoking and Bar Jacket by Dior in 1954.
Even though this collection looked like it was designed by two different minds (after all, there are two designers behind this brand, Ece and Ayse Ege), and even though it didn't blend quite well, it was a celebration of what it was to be glamorous but powerful at the same time. Paying homage to Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg's Nocturne op. 54, it was more a wardrobe of the attendeeds of Studio 54 in New York in the 70s. It was fun, luxurious, and very bold. Perhaps the set of a hanging giant silver ball would give that hint, which then was proven by a dress entirely embroidered in Swarovski it looked like a put-together mirror ball spin off. A mutton-leg sleeve combined with the signature folds and origami-like created voluminous dress with pockets as ornamental flaps. The influence of the likes of Michael Basquiat, Roy Lichtenstein, and Andy Warhol elevated the lack of colours, adding patterns of embellishments with star shapes and contrast colours, making this collection was rather a celebratory collection of the grandeur in the past that still felt relevant today.
Runway photos: courtesy of Dice Kayek.
For complete runway looks and my review in Bahasa Indonesia, head over Style.com Indonesia.