26 January 2016
on 1/26/2016 02:58:00 pm
The first sample of legendary quilted 2.55 bag was in beige tone. Karl resurrected it.
Photo: voguerunway.com / Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
"Fashion is the best borrower of time," a phrase that comes to mind as a trend is emerging. A reflection of what is happening (and sometimes, what will or should happen) can be seen through the collection of Chanel Haute Couture for the Spring/Summer 2016 season. The idea and dream of Karl Lagerfeld of nature and environment, as well as his concern about the survival of the wild became the theme this time, far from the glamorous casino or club between galaxies or even the bustle of the airport as seen in the previous seasons.
A building resembling a sauna house was established on fresh lawn and trees sorrounding with blue sky atop, completed beige-nuanced collection of Chanel, so calming, zen, and yet very luxurious. "A dream for me is an idealized version of a reality that is not easy to be realized. All my life I try to be as close as possible with my dreams," said Karl. And his dream this time is an environmentally friendly and sustainable world.
To be able to live sustainably and in harmony with nature is the urban dream. Perhaps because people always want it all at the same time but at the same time are always dissatisfied - with so there is progress. That is why we also need to ask, how long we can survive with a lifestyle that is so damaging for the environment. Haute couture, in some way, is an alternative to what the future should be. Everything is going slowly, thoughtfully made, and beloved of all time. Even in the front row an element of the wild was also present: a dog, Leo, belongs to Cara Delevigne (although during the show Leo had to wait backstage).
Lightweight materials and honey bee-shaped embroidery ("Their existence is threatened because of human activity," said Karl) fit perfectly with so many preparations around it. The most exciting part, of course was the silhouette. Volume that seemed to reverse - wider at the top - was constructed through tweed jackets with oval shoulder paired with a pencil skirt, making sure an itsy bitsy walk along the way.
Various types of pleats or folds from the work of Maison Lognon in forms of drum, January, and peacock seemed so light, yet very complex. The most interesting thing of course is the use of wood (including invitations printed on plywood) for embroidery. Pallets, 3D frills, and beadings are made from recycled wood and organic materials such as raw cotton. "This is high-fashion meets ecology," said Karl, as a protest of the conditions of fashion world today: disposable and to-the-left for thrice-worns.
Wooden house as central to the show was reminiscent not only on the Green House move or Eco-Friendly Home, but also in a doll house: the models marched in just like little puppets, and wooden doors opened and closed automatically. Yesterday (Karl's childhood, where the doll house idea originated) and tomorrow (future survival) are present simultaneously, in almost the same manner as super intricate details met with a transparent cape. Karl himself explained that the beginning of this collection was silhouettes, and Coco Chanel's love of beige (granting her the title as the Queen of Beige), had an important role in determining the pattern and hue of the overall collection. Chanel goes eco.
For complete runway images and my review in Bahasa Indonesia, go to indonesia.style.com
Signorfandi, Coco goes green....