“In a machine age, dressmaking is one of the last refuges of the human, the personal, the inimitable.” - Christian Dior
What happens if such a big fashion house as Dior is present without a creative director? Will the the collection of Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring / Summer 2016 reflect the history of the House of Dior, as there's no contiunuum so that the inspiration is back to the genesis of the house?
Metal plates which was established at the Musée Rodin reinforced this impression, but not so much: Sharp Bar silhouette on coats and blazers appeared everywhere. Cocktail dresses with embroidered flowers so opulent displayed spirit not only of the house of Dior, but also simplicity of New Couture defined by Raf Simons.
"Dior is always a fairy tale, no matter what I'm doing," said Raf in the documentary, Dior and I. Now, the team under Raf then was the one who designed this new collection. Just like when Bill Gayten when designing the collection of Dior ater John Galliano's dismissal, Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier retained Rafian aesthetic. With its apparent lack of a clear vision, this collection feels like elevated ready-to-wear. so much off-shouder tops, paired with pleated skirts, pencil, as well as 'normal' ruffle. Dior is now completely owned by young people.
Jennifer Lawrence may find some Oscar-worthy looks, and whatever she puts on will look good for such a dynamic personality and demeanor. After all, fashion houses still can make special orders which are not displayed on the runway, or extended runway look from the collection of haute couture recalling the given nature of couture which is very open to alteration.
Half-hearted applause given by invited guests will be sufficient to explain their excitement on this collection. And discussions on a successor Raf continues. The show must go on.
Photo: voguerunway.com / Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
For complete runway images, go to indonesia.style.com
Signorfandi, they better find 'em fast!