25 January 2016

Bertrand Guyon asked us to join the surreal feast!

Photos courtesy Schiaparelli

The Spring/Summer 2016 couture week started this morning by Schiaparelli, located at the Hôtel d'Evreux. Deft blue carpet with various shell motifs and high cabinets filled with porcelain crockery became early hints of this collection. A dinner (which was displayed in the morning, one of several paradoxes appeared) was the inspiration for Bertrand Guyon for Schiaparelli in this Spring/Summer 2016 season.

An idea that food ingredients -from the ordinary such as sweet potatoes, beets, and wheat, up to fancy ones like lobster, wine, and crustacea- as leitmotif seems to be very fashionable (second paradox). Most of them is a reaction to the terror in Paris and reminder of the importance of hanging out with loved ones at home, a tradition that is a little fade. Elsa's expertise, the founder Maison Schiaparelli, to bring ideas of Surealism through collections was translated by Bertrand with an appetizer, a reinterpretation of the Lobster Dress worn by Walis Simpson in 1937 that was reportedly almost spilled by mayonnaise of the painter Salvador Dalí, a muse and the most important collaborator, after tablecloth complete with porcelain plate adorned by gold emborideries and neatly etched wine bottles over a long sleeveless dress. Butterfly wings motif explored by Elsa for her show in the summer of 1937 also appeared side by side with other objects, including the ES initials. The idea of ​​a surrealistic dinner party probably comes from Erdward James, someone who -other than Elsa Schiaparelli- was important in the surrealist circle of his era. Born from the upper class in the UK, Edward often catapulted strange ideas which were then absorbed by Dalí and made into paintings, which ultimately affected Schiaparelli's work.

Now, with the growth of Instafood generation which makes food as an en vogue object, the collection feels very contemporary. And borrowing Elsa phrase, "Do not think of a leading Paris couturier merely as a person who designs a dress. She or he creates the very appearance of contemporary women ", Bertrand creates a collection for to-day. Short jackets which strangely remind me of Chanel jackets (Schiaparelli's biggest rival) could be seen differently when there is an eye-shaped brooch by Jean Cocteau that flashes in the neck with a string of fresh tomatoes-shaped or heart-shaped sequin embellishment. On some pleated silk dresses with porcelain legendary Meißen motifs, spoons, various shapes of pasta, raw shellfish, tubers and eggplants, as well as complex woven raw linen, also tucked luxury jewelry in quirky forms: potato encrusted with diamonds, pea of pearls, strawberries studded with precious stones, and cherries hanging at the top of bustier.

"Eating well gives a spectacular joy to life and contributes immensely to goodwill and happy companionship. It is of great importance to the morale," wrote Elsa in her autobiography, Shocking Life. Joy,  it becomes the right mood for the collection. Offering a critique of the elitist fashion that often looks food as anti-fashion, Bertrand brought the two opposite sides of a coin and wrapped them with thick artistic surrealism. It's time not to be afraid to admit that bon appetite! is a sentence of excitement.

The finale from my point of view is on video below:

For the complete runway images and my review in Bahasa Indonesia, go to

Signorfandi, Santé!